White Truffles. The name has an almost Pavlovian response in chefs. Salivation is immediate and urge to add them to their creations is undeniable. Shaun Hergatt of SHO Shaun Hergatt confirms,“White truffle is like gold out of the ground. They are a true pleasure to eat from aroma to taste. They’re such a unique experience. We all lust for that two months when they blossom.” TravelsinTaste spoke with some of the country’s top chefs about this delicacy and how they are using it this season.
Valentino Las Vegas is highlighting the delicacy in a night of white truffles and wine featuring the wines of Beni di Batasiolo and the cuisine of James Beard Award-winning Chef Luciano Pellegrini. Hosted by renowned restaurateurPiero Selvaggio and Chef Pellegrini the December 9th menu includes Homemade Duck Prosciutto with Boschetto and White Truffle, and Wagyu Beef Medallion with Barolo Demi White Asparagus and White Truffle. “Piero Selvaggio was one of the first restaurateurs in the US to highlight white truffles and we have been doing a special white truffle dinner and menu since we opened at The Venetian,” Chef Luciano Pellegrini said. “I just love white truffles, their depth of flavor and intensity they add to any dish.”
Can’t make it on the 9th, alternately Vincenzo Scarmiglia at Sirio Ristorante at ARIA will create a four course white truffle menu upon request. Scarmiglia explains, “I’ve been serving white truffles since the beginning of my career. It is just fun working with the most expensive food item on the planet.”
Iron Chef Marc Forgione serves “Egg in a Jar” with white truffles at hiseponymous restaurantin New York in addition to adding the delicacy to any dish. Forgione told us, “The way that we do it overall is we sell them by the gram; you can put them on anything. We’ve put them on everything from cappuccino to ice cream. The “Egg in a Jar” came about as we were using the jars already for something we called “Duck in a Jar” which was duck liver mousse. We were looking at these beautiful eggs. We store our truffles with eggs to keep them moist. What ended up happening was the eggs take on the flavor of the truffles. Believe it or not when my truffle guy [PAQ] saw how we were storing the truffles he offered to take a couple of dozen eggs. Obviously he has a lot more truffles in his refrigerator than I do. I keep my Feather Ridge Farm eggs, which I get at the Green Market over here, in his fridge with his truffles and then he gives them back to me.”
For the ultimate burger Josh Capon serves a White Truffle Burger topped with white truffles, robiola cheese, truffle aioli on brioche at B&B in Soho. Capon tells us, “When you think white truffles you think of them shaved over pastas, polenta and egg dishes. We had just opened a great American wine pub with some kick-ass burgers, so I was gonna make it work over one of our burgers no matter what!”
In midtown Chef Justin Bogle of GILT serves a White Truffle, Potato, Egg, Pancetta. The dish is a potato “risotto” finished with mornay sauce, then topped with balsamic gelee, pancetta and fine herbs. Chef Bogle personally comes to each table to add a layer of slow cooked scrambled egg and generous serving of truffle shaving.
Chef Scott Conantserves Ricotta & Truffle Casonsei, sheep’s milk ricotta cheese filled ravioli sautéed in brown butter, finished with a parmesan foam, and topped with freshly shaved white truffles at the original Scarpetta. Conant explains, “White Truffle season is my favorite time of the year….the deep earthy scent of the truffles and a bright sprinkling of parmigiano over a rich buttery pasta is something that great moments start with. Truffles are sexy and sophisticated and the ricotta agnolotti that we make for the truffles I believe is a great vehicle for their delicate essence. Simply put, truffles make your life better or at least they make mine better.” Conant’s Vegas outpost is swerving a Parmesan Agnolotti or Tagliatelle with White Truffle and Parmesan Foam and his Fontainebleau Miami Beach outpost features two truffle pastas: Agnolotti Dal Plin and Tagliolini. Additionally, the restaurant offers a supplemental truffle shaving.
Also in Miami, Quattro Gastronomia Italiana, serves tableside white truffle shavings in addition to dishes like the Fonduta Tartufata Con Crostini with poached egg and toasted biova croutons. “We’re from Piedmont so cooking with white truffles from that region is like second nature to us,” says Quattro co-chef Fabrizo Carro. “It’s unusual to see such a shortage like there is right now, so we’re very lucky to have them. Nothing says ‘decadence’ in Italian cooking like truffles and we’re thrilled to share them with our diners.” Meanwhile, for those in the know Chef Andrew Carmellini offers a special off-the-menu white truffle pizza at The Dutch.
Source: Forbes.com
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